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Thanks Charlie,
Great to hear your input. Yeah, I’m not looking for strength but to produce a fancy looking box. I’ve built lots of boxes with rabbets and I thought I’d go a little “fancier” this time. Looking at “floating in slot” bottom and top so the anti-racking is important.
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Bob,
If you have no takers for your saw, you might investigate the following:
http://www.radialarmsawrecall.com/
or just Google Craftsman Radial Arm Saw Recall.
If you qualify, they will give you $100. It worked for me on a 9″ RAS.
Bill
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Ya gotta admire a guy who has an autographed picture of Norm Abrams in his shop.
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Thanks Rob, I have enough for me. I just want to say that I have several of these lights in my shop. I replaced the standard tubes with LED tubes from Costco. No ballast swap needed. The increased brightness is outstanding and no flicker when they are cold. They use less power now as well. That makes these a good deal for someone.
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Mike,
I’ve been savoring (obsessing) each step so the construction has gone very slowly. I’ll be happy to show it but, perhaps, not ’til next month (or July).
Bill
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I made the repair.
I followed Mike’s suggestion by drilling out the wedge. I used a 3/16″ brad point bit. It was a lot easier than I expected. This resulted in a ragged slot that I cleaned up with a 3/16″ mortise chisel and bench chisel. I clamped up the leg to close the crack and assure I could get the leg to almost its original width. I tested my biscuit fit. It was OK.
I then made a filler piece with a “not-too-tight” fit. I removed the clamp and I wedged open the crack a little so I could put white glue in the crack at the top of the leg, then I clamped down the leg to close the crack. I epoxied in my filler piece and let every thing cure. After curing, I cleaned off the filler piece. I measured the leg width with the clamp on and then with the clamp off. Very little expansion, so I declared this a success. I also checked that I could assemble the outer leg to the inner leg with the biscuits. All was good.
Thanks to all who commented. Definitely a,learning experience. I attach a file showing the repair.
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Charlie,
I drilled holes in the tenon. It was the mortise that failed.
Bill
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Mike,
I agree that material has to be removed to get the leg back to its original width. Drilling down might be enough, but the drill diameter has to be at least the amount the leg width has increased. I will try that, but I suspect I will go the router route in the end. My thought is that once the groove (from the router) is in and the width of the leg can be squeezed to its original dimension with low clamping pressure, I can custom fill the slot with a a piece of wood and epoxy. Afterwards, flush it to the original inner leg surface and then glue on the outer leg.
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Charlie,
I’m a little confused by your last post. Since the inner and outer legs go together “face grain to face grain”, I’m not worried about the strength there. I’m only worried about the strength of the top end stretcher to the inner leg connection. Once I have repaired the crack so that I am comfortable putting the inner and outer legs together, I can either put a couple of dowels (1/4″ or 3/8″) through the inner leg and into the end stretcher tenon perpendicular to the tenon axis or through the outer leg and into the tenon parallel to the end stretcher axis.
Bill
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Thank Charlie,
I wasn’t so worried about strength, but belt & suspenders ain’t bad. Perhaps a couple of dowels.
Bill
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