Bill Leonhardt

Mike, when I bought the saw, I didn’t really research the science. It just seemed that there was a lot of data that said it worked. I always thought it was some combination of conductance and capacitance.

I monitor the SawStop users group on FaceBook. People have reported that the brake will fire with wet wood (how wet is not quantified) and also with wet glue. On the other hand, other people that use a lot of reclaimed wood report no problem when they hit a nail or screw. I guess it depend how the circuit is completed. If needed (say you want to cut aluminum), there is an over-ride switch for the brake.

You’re right about a cheap lesson. Sort of a wake up call for being over confident.

Joe,

I haven’t pulled the trigger yet. There is Father’s Day in June and my birthday late July. Following some hinting, I got an LV gift card for Father’s Day. Continued hinting might result in an LV gift card for my birthday. Either way, I will take the plunge at the end of July.

I would very much like another look so, yes, please bring your shoulder plane on Wednesday. Thanks,

Bill

Daryl,

If you’re thinking about bringing the planes to next week’s round robin, I haven’t even placed the order yet.

That being said, I may look over my plane collection and bring one or more in with some scrap wood.

Bill

Charlie,

I have & use the “Work Sharp”. Love it.

What machine do you use?

Bill

Daryl, Joe & Mike: Thanks for your comments. Good, useful input. Charlie, too.

Daryl: the A2 & O1 are the same price.

Knowing I’m not so good with the stones (at this point, perhaps I’ll get better), I’ll most likelt opt for the O1.

Bill

Thanks Charlie. I hadn’t considered that the “premium” steel would be harder to sharpen, but that makes sense. And, as you say, it’s a plane that shouldn’t get too much abuse.

Joe, When Daryl and I took the inlay class with Mother-of-Pearl inlay material, we used the Dremel bits with the 1/32″ cutter. They seemed reasonably robust.

Thank you Daryl, Mike, Joe and Charlie for your very detailed and wise responses. Good information all around. I have seen an up-cut leave a fuzzy edge when shallow cutting for an inlay, but, as Charlie says, it’s best to score the outline first with a knife to preserve the crisp edge. The most important thing for me to take away is that up-cut means “toward the router” and down-cut means “away from the router”. I can determine the best bit if I remember that.

Bill