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This topic contains 5 replies, has 4 voices, and was last updated by 
Bill Leonhardt 8 years, 4 months ago.
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October 27, 2016 at 4:55 pm #2010
A few months ago (actually at the last LIWW show), I picked up a good deal on an old Delta 14″ drill press (DP220). I will use this to replace my Rockwell 11″ which is still very serviceable but I like having the added throat depth (and also the idea of “old iron”).
Before I let go of the old machine, I want to be sure the new guy is a worthy replacement. It seems to be very tight and runs relatively smoothly. I thought I’d check out the run-out on the chuck. I have a long steel rod that looks straight, but I can’t be positive. Anyway, I can get a hardened dowel and use either one. When I put the dowel in the chuck, what is a reasonable distance from the chuck to measure run-out? What is an acceptable value at that location?
I suppose I could measure the chuck directly. Again, what would be a reasonable value there?
Thanks,
Bill Leonhardt
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October 28, 2016 at 9:55 am #2011
I think I have a FWW book on machine setup. If you want, I can bring it to the meeting Wednesday. I’ll double check tonight. I would think an easy way is to drill a hole, then take the drill bit and pass it through the hole, looking for gaps in the hole. Seems easier than putting a dial indicator on a steel rod.
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October 28, 2016 at 11:26 am #2015
Bill, I can’t quote any recommended specs though we both know they are in the 1000ths (between .005-.008). But I will say that I would highly recommend against a wooden dowel. I’m pretty sure that’s NOT what you meant, though. (Or at least I hope not.) You should be able to use a trusted drill bit. Roll it on a flat surface like your tablesaw to make sure it is true. Then chuck that up, preferably upside down so you can gauge against the smooth un-cut portion of the bit. You can run the same test on the “dowel” you have. You may even be able to buy drill rod from a good hardware store. That IS straight and true. take the reading just below the chuck. I’ll and attach a pdf of a similar article Daryl is talking about.
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October 28, 2016 at 12:00 pm #2017
Joe,
I never meant wood for the dowel. I had some hardened steel dowels around here somewhere that I assumed would be straight, but I have something that may be better. I have a 1/2″ steel rod (might be stainless) 12″ long. It passes the “roll on the table saw” test. First time I chucked it in the DP, the end 12″ from the chuck had a lot of wobble, so I panicked and wrote to the forum.
Thanks for article. It pointed out that I should give the chuck, spindle, etc a good cleaning before I repeat the test. I will and then take measurements 1/2″ below the chuck.
BTW, I don’t like to do this test with a drill bit. Too many chances of getting a false reading because of the flutes.
Thanks again (Daryl, too),
Bill
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October 28, 2016 at 4:31 pm #2018
Bill- I found this thread on the topic as well:
http://www.polytechforum.com/metalworking/acceptable-drill-press-runout-116816-.htm
Although it’s on a metalworking forum, the post is about acceptable runout for woodworking. It seems like most of the guys suggest removing the chuck and checking for runout on the Morse taper section of the spindle.
Bill
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October 30, 2016 at 8:47 am #2021
Bill Hendler,
Thanks for the additional info. More to consider. Currently working through the “honey do” list and will then have time to address the check.
Bill
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