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I believe saw Stop recommends NOT cutting pressure treated wood on the saw. I would guess any wood stored outside sucking up that much moisture would be a problem.
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Glad to see the fence is working out. Nice job on the projects.
Tell me, is it easier to “tune up” your bandsaw not that it on a solid “speaker” cabinet?(I obviously didn’t get much sleep last night.)
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Hey, Ben, I was going to write an article detailing my blade storage system but I believe it was Mike M. that beat me to it. If you have a number of blades as I have accumulated over the years, you might be interested in it. Those square plastic carriers that some manufacturers include with their blades was my inspiration. Let me know and I will be happy to get you some details. You will probably be able to adapt it to the cabinet. I designed a dedicated cabinet for the holders that fit under my table saw’s side extension. Works great.
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If we don’t currently, it will certainly be put on the list to acquire. Good idea, Ben.
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That’s funny. In all the years I’ve owned and operated one, I’ve never once sawed a table on it. 😉
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Nice job!
I never considered the cut-out table would be an issue but the lever does apply downward pressure. I guess you need something under it to press back! I suppose you can simply make a plywood or laminated side table to replace that one section. No need to buy a full cast iron one. Though, it is nice to have the extra mass. It’s just more expense and more mounting screws between the components. -
As soon as I use up all the lumber sitting on it, you can come and get it. I’ll even put it in my will that once all that wood is used up, someone from your family has to take it and put it where ever you are at that time. Even if that is a mantle.
BTW, I will be bringing some lumber to the meeting if anyone is interested. NO, I’m not dying just cleaning up the shop! -
Hint all you like but you ain’t getting a birthday gift from me.
But I will be happy to bring a shoulder plane or two. -
For me, it depends on the tool and the status of the blade in deciding when to use the Worksharp rather than my water stones. If I’m putting a camber on a plane blade, I stick with the stones. Like Charlie, the strop is always the final step. Even after using 4000 grit micro mesh on the machine, I find a get a superior edge from the strop. I’ve tried the Worksharp strop but I really don’t like it. But that could just be me. If I doing extensive chisel work, I will simply strop the edge after a short time to keep it razor sharp and get back to work.
If you haven’t yet pulled the trigger, Bill, I can bring in my LV shoulder plane for you to try at the round robin next Wednesday. -
Bill,
I have a couple of the L-V shoulder planes and I love them. It’s no surprise that I am a huge fan of Lie-Nielsen tools but I was never keen on their shoulder planes. That, of course, is all a matter of personal preference. As Charlie stated, these tools get little abuse (unless you cut your tennons REALLY fat). That said, the newer PM-V11 steel is claimed to be the ultimate compromise for holding a fine edge for a long time while requiring little effort to sharpen. I can not personally attest to that since I don’t have any of that steel. However, my personal favorite is the common O1, high carbon steel. It sharpens much easier than A1 (which I have) to a finer edge (it’s all about the crystals) and lasts long enough particularly in a shoulder plane or any similar tool.
On the other hand, you could take the stance that such a tool does not require a super fine edge to do it’s job well and since it doesn’t get used as much it doesn’t require a lot of time sharpening. So, you could opt for the A1 which holds an edge longer (even longer under such conditions) and sharpen it even less frequently with adequate results.
So, to sum up, it’s basically a coin toss (or two). I would base it on my skill at the stones and my willingness to sharpen. Or, go for the PM-V11 and let us try it. -
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