Joe Bottigliere

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  • in reply to: Miter Saw Runout #2059
    Joe Bottigliere
    Joe Bottigliere
    Participant

    I assume you tried other blades and checked the one you were using to eliminate that from the equation. I think you want to keep arbor runout under .010″. There is always some but a quality machine should be <.005″. If there is a visible bend in the arbor, it’s time to repair or replace.
    It could be that the blade is bent. Double check your measurements by marking the high spot on the blade then rotating the blade on the arbor slightly, retighten the nut then check again. The “high spot” would be at the same point on the blade. But you should check the arbor as well to see if that is the culprit.
    Check the washer and nut (and blade) for any burr that might have formed or gunk build-up that would throw it out of square.
    Ultimately, if the cut is no good, there is something wrong and you should be concerned.

  • in reply to: Forstner Bits #2051
    Joe Bottigliere
    Joe Bottigliere
    Participant

    Genius! I think you could save a fortune by purchasing in bulk. Buy only large bits in large quantities then reduce their diameter to the appropriate size. If you do need to increase the diameter, you can always add JB Weld epoxy to the perimeter to get you there.
    Perhaps we can market such a system for mass production. A new concept in the adjustable bit.

  • in reply to: Forstner Bits #2049
    Joe Bottigliere
    Joe Bottigliere
    Participant

    I am always impressed with the innovation of woodworkers! Great tip Charlie. I’ll be sure to try that sandpaper trick. As for the bit, I’m not sure of the effect multiple holes would have. I would be sure to use a hard wood since a soft wood might not apply enough pressure on the bit to shrink it. Let me know how you make out.

  • in reply to: Forstner Bits #2027
    Joe Bottigliere
    Joe Bottigliere
    Participant

    Well, Charlie, that’s exactly what I did. It’s one reason it took me so long to finish this latest project. I don’t advise it, though. I had to wait for three different sales to get the tools I needed. Who would have thought it so difficult to find one sheet of 220 grit sandpaper at a garage sale??? Next time I’ll just buy the 100 grit and wait until it wears down to the right grit!

  • in reply to: Drill Press Question #2015
    Joe Bottigliere
    Joe Bottigliere
    Participant

    Bill, I can’t quote any recommended specs though we both know they are in the 1000ths (between .005-.008). But I will say that I would highly recommend against a wooden dowel. I’m pretty sure that’s NOT what you meant, though. (Or at least I hope not.) You should be able to use a trusted drill bit. Roll it on a flat surface like your tablesaw to make sure it is true. Then chuck that up, preferably upside down so you can gauge against the smooth un-cut portion of the bit. You can run the same test on the “dowel” you have. You may even be able to buy drill rod from a good hardware store. That IS straight and true. take the reading just below the chuck. I’ll and attach a pdf of a similar article Daryl is talking about.

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  • in reply to: Forstner Bits #2014
    Joe Bottigliere
    Joe Bottigliere
    Participant

    All good points, Daryl. I’m not really complaining about the price, but like so many things you could just throw more and more money at it to ensure you get GOOD quality. Not necessarily GREAT quality. But being responsible is just as important. Could we find a product that performs well at a reasonable price? We should.
    No, I don’t use these bits all the time. I really can’t justify spending $15-$20 a bit for something that might sit there for 6 or 8 months when spending $10/bit will perform nearly as good. They may not have the longevity of the pricy bits but they wouldn’t get used often so they should last.
    I have a cheap set and it works ok. But I need something a bit more accurate or clean cutting. I was hoping someone out there already found something they trust.
    And you can get a decent lathe for $1500 and still afford the necessary grinding equipment to make those $20 bits.

  • in reply to: Forstner Bits #2008
    Joe Bottigliere
    Joe Bottigliere
    Participant

    Subtly is lost on you, Charlie. Why do you think I put this out there. Just in case any of you guys were wondering what to get your good ol’ buddy …

  • in reply to: Coping and Fret Saws #1891
    Joe Bottigliere
    Joe Bottigliere
    Participant

    Matt,
    I’ve been considering the New Concepts saws myself since they hit the market. The price may seem hard to justify at first but after cutting a number of simple dovetails with an antique jeweler’s saw, I am seeing the benefit. My oldie worked great but had its limitations. My coping saw is an older Sadvik brand. They have since been bought over by Bahco, I believe. I like it a lot and it has been highly rated. It has good adjustability and is durable. Still, if you want the quality and plan on using the saw more than a few times a year as I do, then I say invest in the N.C. saws or at least go look at one if you can. You only cry once when you spend on quality.

  • in reply to: Free Wood Available #1862
    Joe Bottigliere
    Joe Bottigliere
    Participant

    Ben, he is willing to let you take only what you want. I think once you scrape off some paint, you’ll have some nice thick, clean stock. I’ll email you his address. You guys can work out the details.

  • in reply to: Free Wood Available #1858
    Joe Bottigliere
    Joe Bottigliere
    Participant

    Let see if this these pictures work …

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Viewing 10 posts - 121 through 130 (of 145 total)