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There were a couple of members with connections to guys selling planers, Mike. I would look back on the forums about a month or so ago. Considering the current circumstances, they might still be available.
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Nah! You gotta live on the edge and experience some excitement. I take several boxes of screws, without even looking at them and mix them together. Then, I just pick them, randomly, and install as needed. It’s exhilarating! Though, that could explain my finishing issues …
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Bill,
I know this comes after the fact and is of little help to you. But anyone else who may consider a similar build or technique should make note of this. Since no one else mentioned it, I think it worth pointing out. You should avoid wedging a tenon such that the forces will be perpendicular to the grain direction. That is, so that it forces the vertical grain apart like an axe. Had your wedges been located horizontally, you would not have split the grain. They could have at least been installed diagonally in the joint and still you could have avoided the split. Of course, that is not always practical and one should consider the location of the mortises. If it is far enough from an edge, or not very deep, the damage will be avoided. But these look pretty close to the edge of leg and they are designed to go all the way through. You did not mention it, but did you relieve the mortise walls to allow room for the displaced tenon or were the mortise walls just cut straight? I believe that also helps to relive the splitting effect of this technique.
It’s obvious that the other legs were fine. But I think it is worth noting for those less aware of these pitfalls.
For what it’s worth, my suggestion would be to inject some epoxy into the split and clamp it closed. (Of course do what you must to allow it to clamp closed.) Then reinforce it with dowels as Charlie recommends.
Good luck! -
That would make it a “hall flower” project, no? Maybe it’s for little coats.
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Hey Bob. I have a Laguna 14/12 also. (It’s the smaller of the two versions.) It runs for about $1.1K and accepts up to 3/4″ blades. I am very happy with it. It has lots of great features like ceramic guides, all cast iron construction, cast wheels and trunnions, rack & pinion guide adj., 1-1/2hp motor – nothing flimsy about it. I’ve resawn some hard maple about 10″ wide and was quite pleased. (I think I could have used a sharper blade but the results were acceptable.) My only gripe is setting the guides. They require no tools but can be tricky to reach the lower guides. I’m not one for tilting the table to reach them. If you have extra fat fingers, it may be a problem. But it tracks perfectly. I also do not believe in blade drift. A saw should be set so there is no drift and this saw delivers that. The fence is always kept square tot he table and as long as the blade tracks in the middle of the wheels, it’s perfect.
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Looks like I have a lot of catching up to do.
Nice work as always, Charlie.
Ben, are you actually planting a sycamore in your hall to hang coats? What am I missing … But we can all see where the real craftsmanship lies in that family. Keep him at it.
Great bench, Andrew. I’ve been threatening to build mine for nearly a decade now. Much longer with this quarantine and I just might get the chance. In the meantime, I’ve been busy making a closet door out of knotty alder from Urban Specialty Hardwoods. Almost done. But working from home can take more time than it allows. I’ll get pictures when I can. -
Rob, Mike offers a very practical solution. But if I remember right, you have a Delta? Why not go to Delta and order from them or at least look at the parts list? I know Grizzly provides replacement bearings for their machines by model number as well.
Also note, that there is a difference in bearings. American made have an edge over the others. You pay a few dollars more but it’s well worth it. -
That sounds about right, Mike. I could not remember the terms. I’m still working on treen and foxing …
I’ve seen vises where there is nothing more than a wooden wedge holding the screw to the jaw. I think, the split collar is used on the back end but I could be wrong. Regardless, I think you [Robert] get the idea. These things were made to be repaired. And if they were glued in, I bet they used hide glue so it could be disassembled.Mice engine, by the way. Did you restore it or is that purchased rebuilt?
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Robert,
I’m guessing you want to remove the jaw so you could work on it or replace the screw. It sounds like the screw may just be worn down from years of use. Even metal screw vises experience that especially if allowed to cant or twist while clamping.
That appendage sticking down in that top photo should carefully be removed. That, I believe, what retains the screw in the jaw but allows it to rotate in the nut. (The proper name escapes me.) The entire jaw with screw should simply unscrew from the bench unless there is a retainer on the end of the screw which would stop the user from accidentally pulling the jaw out. This may be a simple little piece with a slot which engages a chase on the threaded shaft.
Hope that helps. -
That’s quick. You’re gonna love it! I really don’t see any of the disadvantages people complain about. Some say it’s harder to feed or you have to feed slower or take a smaller cut. I have always tended to take it easy on my machines so light cuts (1/32 – 1/16) were typical on my jointer. Even through the planer I am very conservative. The only drawback I have noticed – and this may not be accurate – is a slight decrease in the width of cut on my jointer. It’s appears to be a little under the 6″ I was getting with my conventional cutter head. But that’s minor in the scheme of things.
On my Grizzly, the replacement was quick, easy, and required very little adjustment of the outfeed table. It has to be lowered completely for the process, but aligning it at TDC is straightforward and I have a stinky lever instead of a wheel. So, you should be golden.
One problem may be replacing the bearings. They’re not always easy to get off and press on without an arbor press. Wish I could come over, drink your beer and help out in the process. Oh, well. Next machine upgrade. -
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