Charlie James

I have mine in a large mayo jar. I throw in any desiccants I get with different packages, I change them when I think of it…… I got $50 about 10 years ago for that idea from Fine Woodworking..

Daryl, thanks, this I did not know! Is the white version comparable to Elmer’s in the thickness category? That’s a big reason on why I like to use it. I know you can add a touch of water but I’d rather not play with the formula. I’ll have to change my thinking, I’d rather give work to the Ohioans’….

Dean, I don’t know about two types of Elmer’s white glue.I buy the Elmer’s white glue, of course, accept no substitutes! It has to have the cow on the label 🙂

White glue has a longer open time and has to be clamped for a longer period of time but once set, they’re essentially the same animal. If it’s a difficult glue up, it’s white glue for me, It’s not as thick as yellow and it’s easy to apply. If it’s not a time consuming glue up and I want to glue and remove the clamps in a few hours, I’ll use Titebond II. I don’t use gorilla glue or Titebond III for glue ups as there’s not enough time to play. Glue lines are easier to see when using those glues as well. Nothing the matter with using Titebond original either.

As far as the question of using a biscuit joiner… I do use one but usually for boards that are difficult to keep aligned, whether too large, long or ones that need the tiniest bit of persuasion. I try to keep the biscuit center or low so that it doesn’t telegraph through the top. I use Tightbond II or white glue for most boards and hide glue if I want to take the time to heat it up.

Joe, thanks for that, I was getting worried! Yep, welding a frame would be best. Outsized frame and beefy wheels would work perfect. I liked the 4 wheels, much easier to move around.

On another note: I tried selling my radial arm saw for years and eventually gave it to a friend that was setting up a shop for the NYC housing authority. It worked well for years but I found my chop saws worked fine for the work I was doing so I didn’t need it anymore.

I don’t have them anymore but I used mobile bases for years on all my tools since my shop was small. I made them out of several layers of plywood and laid a solid pine 1″X6″ flat around the top to prevent sagging. I’d compare it to a movers dolly. I lag bolted the legs of the machines to the base. I used four lockable 4″ 360 degree wheels, I usually locked 2 when I used the saw. The base had to be larger than the body of the saws so there wasn’t a problem with “tipping over” when a project was placed on the saws. The wheels were placed on the most extreme edges as that’s the point of contact and it made it easier to lock wheels with my foot. The only problem I had was the height of the tools with the base and wheels added to it. If I made them again I’d use smaller industrial wheels made for the weight and I’d figure out some way of putting something like a temporary wood frame all around it when in place so the wheels weren’t the only point of contact with the ground. I have a laguna bandsaw and it came with wheels and a metal base. It has a long metal bar with wheels that fits into a hole in the base and you use leverage to tip the saw and move it. The base takes into account the height of the wheels so the metal base is flat on the ground. The plywood bases were jury rigged contraptions but served me well for years.

Thanks, figured that…