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Joe, keep it up and you will have to be expelled from the FKDES (the Frank Klausz Dovetail Everything Society).
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Traditionally, the pins go on the front, or on the top if it’s a top to a chest. Those are done for engineering reasons, but for a small jewelry box or similar, it’s strictly what you prefer. I do think when you “stray” from tradition, the box might not “feel” right in some people’s eyes, even if they don’t know why. If he joints are being cut by hand, it’s a bit more work to make it a box joint, since then every single angle must be square. You miss a degree in a dovetail, it won’t matter if the joint is tight. If using a router, then a box joint is easier.
And to me, I don’t worry if I do pins first or tails first. I’ve done both, the interesting one is when I do a dovetail within a dovetail (I brought that joint to the last show in the demo I did). Then you are sort of doing both at the same time. It’s something that might be really good for a box, if you want to accentuate the joinery. And also make a two day project last a month.
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I would think you want to apply an equal amount of finish on both sides of the drawer, just to make sure the wood doesn’t warp because of an unevenly applied finish. Too much manufactured furniture now uses compressed materials with veneer even for drawers (with a false front, you can pocket screw a drawer together and you wouldn’t know unless you pulled it out and looked at the back—I know, some use dowels. but they aren’t close to strong enough to hold a drawer together for years, or even a couple of years).
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Nice Andrew. Unlike you though, I swear way more than three times.
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Cutting edge humor keeps us young.
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Steve, I changed my mind, you screwed it up instead. Enough banter, I’m off to play dominoes while I eat a biscuit.
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I guess you’ve nailed it
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Thanks Bob. Can you post a link?
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I’m like Joe, I always take light cuts. With the segmented cutterhead, I no longer worry about grain direction, which is nice. I even managed to joint and plane waterfall bubinga (which I cannot say 3 times fast) with no tearout, so the Byrd and the others are great.
In thinking about it, it’s really like a powered toothing blade…take that Charlie James!
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I got the Byrd and it worked great. There were some problems. It was supposed to fit my Felder jointer, and it did (replacing the cutterhead took abut 9 hours, but that’s because Austrians make crazy machinery). The cutterhead was about 1/16″ smaller in diameter than the OEM, so it took another hour to reset everything to the smaller diameter. After that, it worked great. So if there are alignment problems, it might be that.
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