Joe Bottigliere

First off, what do you know about wine, Corey; are you old enough to drink? 🙂

I mentioned walnut already. It works great with hand or power tools and carves nicely. When you get air dried stock, the colors are like a chocolate rainbow. And it looks fantastic with an oil (Watco) finish, wet sanded and waxed.

My next favorites would be curly/quilted/figured maple. Under a dye with some shellac, it pops like a firecracker. The chatoyance is mesmerizing.

Pine. What can I say? It’s traditional and ages to a warm patina like cherry does. And who can complain about its workability?

Finally, I have to say I like poplar. Go ahead and snicker. I like the color – especially the dark greens. But I love the way it works under a plane. It can get fuzzy, but you can fix that. You can stain it, you can paint it or you can appreciate it for what it is. I’m also glad most people don’t like enough. It’s cheap.

Hey Charlie, maybe these aren’t shelves but a real fancy laundry basket. It appears the dirty clothes will gently fall to the rear of the carcass awaiting pickup. The smaller openings above the “shelves” are ventilation slots. See, now it has a purpose.

You know, Bob, transportation is always an issue with these larger machines. Depending on where the machine is currently and where it will end up is obviously going to dictate how much work is involved. Can you lift this onto a dolly and roll it to a rented or borrowed trailer? Will you simply roll off a trailer and into your garage? You get the picture. With asking price you mentioned for this, it may be worth hiring a professional moving team if there are lots of stairs involved. Alternately, the machine can be partially disassembled. Taking the cast iron top off will make a tremendous difference as will removing even the 10lb handles. Aligning a Unisaw top to the blade is a fairly easy process so don’t be shy in taking it apart.
There are a lot of friendly members in this club. With enough notice, give a shout to them for help. You may be surprised just how many friends you have (especially if there’s a cold beer waiting for them afterwards). 🙂

Bob,
I meant to say, ASSESS not access for yourself.
I should have mentioned that if there is cracked cast iron or chipped gears or really stiff movement in the controls (it may be a bent shaft), you will have to be honest with yourself if these are things you want to be bothered repairing or not. If you don’t want to spend the time and money, then walk away. The saw should not make any weird noises either. Mine doesn’t. Nor is there any excessive vibration while the machine is running. Again, it depends on what the asking price is.

Although a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush, a good Unisaw may be worth three or four. It’s tough to say if it is worth it, however. It depends on what the price is and in what condition the machine is in as well as its age. Though they are known to be reliable, motors do get old and can break down. The Unisaw is a great machine. They typically have 3 HP motors and are reliable. They are good, solid, heavy machines that will stay tuned up indefinitely. I have not had to readjust mine since I first set it up almost 20 yrs. ago! This saw can last you a lifetime.

You first want to make sure you have a fence, throat plate and preferably splitter and blade guard (though, those last two are negotiable). You want to look out for any cracked cast iron and extensive rust. Little rust can be easily cleaned and make for a good bargain. Try all the adjustments making sure the blade rises and retracts smoothly (or fairly). The gearing may only need a good cleaning. Check “under the hood” for dust build up. It is to be expected and may be the only reason things stick; again, a good reason for a bargain. Check the belts. Depending on the model, there should be three. They should be in decent shape but they are minor fixes. Ask for a straight edge and check to see that the table is flat. If it’s not – walk away. If there is any warp or severe dips, you will never be happy and it is probably the most costly part of the saw. Don’t worry about extension tables. They are cheap and easy to build. Make sure the fence is quality (Unifence, Beismier or some other quality aftermarket). You will have to access for yourself if any of the issues are repairable. Don’t let rust scare you or worn belts or scratched paint. If it is set up for 220V (as it should be) don’t be afraid. You can easily run a line in your shop or convert it back to 110V if necessary.
But don’t just jump on it. You don’t want to jerry rig things to make the saw work. It’s not worth it. There are always sales to be had if you are patient. Finally, remember that a good price is whatever you are willing to pay for it. Good luck and enjoy.
(Now a shameless plug. I have a Delta tenoning jig for sale if you are interested.)

Name sounds familiar. Wonder if he’ll ever make the big time.
But come on, Mike. Even if this guy made one chair a year, how can anyone survive on $180K? After all, it is California.

Hey Woody,
Is that the same sweatshirt you tried to sell me for $20?!!

GREAT job at the Toy Workshop, guys! You made it hard for me to talk, but you kept busy and the crowds happy! Nice work.