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Thanks Daryl, it always helps to be reminded to think the cut though first. Speed and inattention leads to carelessness as well and he talked about knots, my case in point. I wrote in the Woodrack many years ago (mid-late 90’s?) about my accident on the day of a major snowstorm. It took a while to get to the hospital, my hand packed in ice, all the roads were closed. Luckily the surgeons were able to sew the skin back on my fingers and all these years later it still effects me at times. I hit a hidden knot while using my shaper and even though I had a fence in place as well as a hood over the blade it pulled my hand into the spinning bit, a broken piece of wood jammed it to a stop before it took the rest of my fingers off. The bit flayed the skin off of two of my fingers and put a deep cut in another. I sat in the emergency room with no less than 4 men that had the same type of injury. The DR walked up to me and asked ” another snowblower?”…
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Great job everyone! It looks like I missed a fantastic show, next year….
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Velveeta and chicken??? I remember eating Velveeta as a kid but can’t remember the circumstances, I guess that’s a good thing? Hard Maple, Cherry and White Oak are excellent cutting board materials. The edge grain is even better than face grain. I think we talked about finish on another thread? Either way, If you’re going for a finish to dress it up, mineral oil fits the bill. After it’s used a few times the finish will disappear unless you keep wiping it on but it’s really a waste of time. I prefer to give it a wiping down with mineral oil just the one time.
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Good you checked it out further. Too good to be true is usually something to be suspicious of.
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Mike, you’re right, it was used to quickly remove wood on any solid or veneer, especially on difficult grain. Veneer at that time was not the thickness of veneer we have now it could be 1/4″ thick or more.
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Dennis, That could be the thinking for its use back then, yes. This is something that was done years ago but that doesn’t make it right. I wouldn’t go near the chainsaw carving tool but people still use it. Of course that one is dangerous. The toothed planes have very fine teeth and I would venture to say it may weaken the wood since now you’re cutting into the surface. It’s a slight cut but a cut just the same. It’s also a tool used for just one pass, if you pass over the same area twice you are making a cross check pattern weakening the grain even more. I figure it’s an extra step that may hurt more than help, it’s just not necessary. Anyone?
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Nah, the reason for the veneer hammer is to push out the glue before it hardens. If there is a bubble of glue the fix is to pour hot glue on top of the veneer and continue. It’s not like other glues that can’t be “reconstituted”, hide glue can be brought back to life again and again by heating it.
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I like to read while I’m fishing. I found a very old woodworking book at a garage sale, it stated very clearly “toothed blades are not necessary for veneer work”! I was so excited I must have loosened my grip on the binding. A powerful wind, almost like a hand, grabbed the book and carried it into the sea…If only I could remember the name of that book!
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Ed, Both!
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I have all 4 wheels rotate so I can turn it on a dime. As Daryl said, make sure they lock. I keep losing the dimes though…
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